As seen in Blue
Ginger: East Meets West Cooking with Ming Tsai By Ming Tsai
and Arthur Boehm
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| Curry
powder |
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There is no such thing as curry powder
in Indian cooking, as most cooks know. Tinned or bottled curry
powders are in fact convenient versions of the spice mixtures that
Indian cooks compose daily. Curry powders can be excellent, however,
depending on their maker and the product’s freshness. My preferred
blend is referred to as and often labeled Madras curry powder, a
mixture favored in the southern Indian state of the same name. Most
often a blend of curry leaves, turmeric, coriander, cumin, cinnamon,
cloves, chili pepper, bay leaves, fenugreek, allspice, and black
pepper, it has a mellow balance and is neither too hot nor too mild.
Look for brands in which bits of bay leaf are visible, which I find
the most flavorful. Like all curry powders, however, it must be used
when fresh.
Available in Ming's Pantry |
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| Fermented
black beans |
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This pungent ingredient predates soy
sauce as a Chinese cooking staple. To prepare it, soy beans are
partially decomposed, then dried and sometimes salted. Store the
beans, which are usually sold in bags, away from light in a cool
place; they will last indefinitely. Always rinse fermented black
beans well before using them to remove excess salt.
Available in Ming's Pantry |
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| Five-spice
powder |
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This tantalizing spice blend, which
consists usually of star anise, Szechwan peppercorns, clove, fennel,
and cinnamon, has been used in China since ancient times. Because
the number five is significant in Chinese belief, the five-spice
blend is said to be beneficial to health. True or not, the mixture
is a wonderful addition to a wide range of dishes. As with all
spices, buy small quantities, store tightly in a cool, dry place,
and check periodically to make sure the blend is still aromatic.
Available in Ming's Pantry |
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| Fish
sauce |
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Called nam pla in Thailand and nuoc
man in Vietnam, this Southeast Asian staple is a product of salted
and fermented anchovies and is used there as the Chinese use soy
sauce. I prefer the Thai Three Crab Brand, which has a fresh sea
taste and slight sweetness. Though fish sauce will keep on the
shelf, it is best stored in the fridge once opened.
Available in Ming's Pantry |
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| Galangal |
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A relative of ginger, this root
(actually an underground stem) is a staple of Southeast Asian
cooking. Galangal, which is also called blue ginger, is more
sourpeppery than ginger and can be distinguished from it by its pink
shoots and brown skin. Shred or slice galangal finely and use it to
complement dishes that would otherwise benefit from a ginger-like
seasoning. Wrapped well, it will remain fresh in the fridge for up
to three weeks. |
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| Hoisin
sauce |
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A soy bean derivative, this reddish
brown sauce is both sweet and spicy. Its composition varies from
brand to brand but almost always consists of some combination of
soybean paste, sugar, garlic, and vinegar. The Chinese use hoisin
sauce as a condiment and glaze for roasted meats, most commonly with
Peking duck. I use it often in marinades and with grilled dishes.
When adding it to dishes, always cook hoisin in oil for a few
minutes to rid it of its raw bean flavor.
Available in Ming's
Pantry |
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| Kechap
manis |
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Indonesia’s traditional soy sauce,
this flavoring ingredient is thicker and sweeter than its Chinese or
Japanese cousins. It excels as a marinade ingredient and may be used
in place of Soy Syrup. |
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| Mirin |
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Referred to sometimes as Japanese
sweet sake, mirin is rice wine with added sugar. Mirin is an
essential ingredient in Japanese cooking and adds a subtle sweetness
to many dishes; it is also used, traditionally, to glaze foods. Try
to buy hon-mirin, which is naturally brewed and contains natural
sugars, as opposed to aji-mirin, which can contain sweeteners. |
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| Miso |
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A savory fermented soybean paste and
seasoning, miso is the primary ingredient in the Japanese soup for
which it’s named. There are four main types: white miso (shiro
miso), made with rice (I use this in my signature Blue Ginger Sea
Bass); yellow miso (shinhò miso), tart, fairly salty, and the most
commonly available rice type; red miso, made with barley, deeply
flavored, and available in sweet and salty versions; and the dark
brown bean miso, which is robust, very rich and salty. For the
recipes in this book, I specify the lighter misos. Available in
cans, jars and plastic tubs, miso should be stored tightly covered
in the fridge, where it will last up to three months. |
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| Oyster
sauce |
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This Cantonese ingredient and
condiment is made from oysters, water, and salt (and sometimes
cornstarch). Misuse and inferior brands have given the sauce a poor
reputation, but it can be a delicious addition to a wide range of
dishes. Sold usually in bottles, the best brands have more rich
oyster flavor and less cornstarch. Look for oyster sauce that does
not contain MSG or other additives-I recommend Amoy or Lee Kum Kee
brands. Stored in the fridge, oyster sauce will last indefinitely.
Available in Ming's
Pantry |
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| Ponzu |
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A much-favored Japanese dipping sauce,
made with a blend of citrus juices and usually, rice vinegar and soy
sauce, among other ingredients. It can be purchased in Japanese
markets or you may substitute a blend of equal quantities of lime
and lemon juices. |
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| Rock
sugar |
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The Chinese have used sugar in savory
dishes since ancient times and have developed a repertoire of this
sweetener. Among these is rock (or yellow) sugar, which adds subtle,
mellow flavor, as well as a translucent finish, to Chinese braised
or “red roasted” dishes. For savory cooking I prefer rock sugar
to its white, granulated counterpart and urge you to buy this
large-crystal sweetener.
Available in Ming's Pantry |
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| Sea
salt |
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I’m often told that salt is salt—
not true! Sea salt, which is available in fine or coarse
grains (the very large-grain variety, known commonly as gros sel,
requires a table mill) has a clean tastiness other salts lack. Its
relatively large flakes also make it a pleasure to use. Of all sea
salts, the French fleur de sel is considered the finest. Taken from
the crust of salt-pond evaporation, it is delicate but also
intensely flavored. It is used most often to season cooked dishes or
crudites, but I like to prepare food with it, too. |
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| Shaoxing
wine |
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This drinking and cooking staple
originated in the Zhejiang province. Known also as Chinese rice
wine, it is aged eighteen months to one hundred years-these
venerable bottles are much prized. Shaoxing, which is made with
millet and yeast in addition to rice and water, has a flavor similar
to dry sherry, which is a suitable substitute for it. Avoid bottles
labeled “Shaoxing cooking wine.” Don’t mistake Shaoxing for
Chinese rice wine vinegar. |
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| Soy
sauce |
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Sometimes referred to as light or thin
soy sauce to distinguished it from dark and mushroom-flavored
varieties, this essential Asian cooking ingredient has been used for
more than three thousand years. Soy sauce is made from a soybean,
flour, and water mixture that is naturally fermented and allowed to
age. Soy sauces vary in richness of flavor, saltiness, and viscosity
depending on the place of their manufacture and the care with which
they’re produced. I prefer Japanese Kikkoman Soy Sauce, Chinese
Pearl River Bridge Superior Soy Sauce (not to be confused with “soy
superior sauce,” a descriptive term for some dark soy sauce, see
below, or Koon Chun’s Thin Soy Sauce.
Available
in Ming's Pantry |
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| Soy
sauce, dark |
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Aged for much longer periods than
regular or light soy sauce, and sometimes containing molasses for
flavor depth, dark soy sauce is used in dishes (never as a
condiment) for hearty flavor. It is actually less salty than light
soy sauce. This sauce is often labeled “black soy sauce” or “soy
superior sauce.” Brands I prefer include Koon Chun Black soy Sauce
and Amoy’s. |
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| Szechwan
(Sichuan) peppercorns |
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The berries of a shrub from the
prickly ash family, these budlike peppercorns have been favored by
Szechwan cooks for millenia. Before trying them, people expect the
peppercorns to have a pungent taste, but their flavor is
subtle-clean, somewhat woody and slightly numbing to the tongue.
Often combined with salt or other peppers for seasoning, the
peppercorns should always be toasted before grinding them in a
pepper mill, clean coffee grinder, or with a mortar and pestle.
To toast the peppercorns, heat a wok
or heavy skillet over medium heat. Add the peppercorns in a single
layer and toast them, stirring, until they’re fragrant and on the
point of smoking, about 3 minutes. Remove from the pan and cool
before grinding.
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| Turmeric,
fresh |
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Most people are familiar with the
dried and powdered form of this ancient seasoning, which comes from
the root of a tropical plant related to ginger. The fresh root,
which does indeed resemble ginger, is available in Asian markets and
is used chopped or sliced. I like fresh turmeric for its pungent
taste and the beautiful color it adds to dishes. Store the root as
you would ginger, well wrapped in a plastic bag in the fridge. If
fresh turmeric isn’t available, substitute the pungent,
yellow-colored powdered turmeric in the proportion of one part
powder to every two parts fresh. |
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